RC4WD Indian River Goonies RECON G6

RC4WD Indian River Goonies RECON G6

This Recon G6 caught ScalerFab Team Driver Oliver Barber "Hook, Line, and sinker"

Event Recap

 RC4WD Indian River Goonies RECON G6

Oliver Barber - 7/10/17

                       Unfortunately, I missed this event the previous two years that it occurred, but this year I finally had free time while it was taking place. It was the 1st “official’ G6 event that I’ve taken part in (although I have done a number of g6-style events in the past), and it definitely lived up to the hype!

There was some rain the week leading up to the event weekend and the night before, but the weather on the day of the actual event was pretty great. I arrived at the campground that it was held at on Friday afternoon, and ended up helping to build 400 gate markers for the next day. The same evening, the Terracross race took place, which looked like a lot of fun.

Saturday morning, the event began. After signup finished, there was a special “float your rig” challenge using homemade rafts on a nearby river; there were a huge variety of both powered and unpowered boats, and even though a couple trucks slipped into the water (and were recovered safely) a lot of fun was had!

The main event consisted of four stages; three with 100 gates, and one shorter 50-gate stage near the above-mentioned river. Driving took place from about 10am to 6pm, although a very quick driver could probably have finished in a couple of hours. After each stage, there was a special “driver challenge”. These consisted of a variety of activities; a couple main ones being trying to hit a RC4WD banner with a weighted fishing line, and rolling a large dice to do one of five random activities (driving a few gates backwards, shouting a slogan, etc.).

I ran through all stages without incident until the final one, where I ran into a rock so hard that I de-beaded a front tire. This was pretty easily fixed though, and my ScalerFab bumpers and sliders were nonplussed by the impact.

Overall the courses were not too difficult, with some fun, more challenging sections (as you’d expect from a G6) that provided a good amount of variety; some were just technical driving, whereas with others, a winch and my ScaleFab land anchor came in very handy. The raffle and prizes started at 7pm once everyone had finished driving and had time for a break; prizes were awarded for 1.55, 1.9, 2.2, GCM Tiny Truck (full interior + small tires), and Trials Truck (6x6) classes.

Ultimately, it was an extremely fun event, and a great introduction to G6’s for me. I’ll definitely be back next year, and am already planning on some builds specifically for the 2018 event (including a 6x6, hopefully).

Chris Leal stops by AMain Hobbies for the Axialfest warm up event.

Chris Leal stops by AMain Hobbies for the Axialfest warm up event.

  AMain Hobbies event was A-OK in this Team Drivers book!


            This month's adventure has us at AMain Hobbies in Chico, California for their Axialfest Warm up Crawl. We started on the course right away so we could get our names in the raffle. After we ran the course a few dozen times we took a break to spin the loot wheel at the event, enjoyed some snacks, met a few new awesome people, and got to hang with the 530CROOKEDCRAWLER group who are an awesome couple of guys! Once we had hung out for a while and watched everyone take their turn I jumped back on the course for a quick vid of going around it in its currently built state, as it changes every month. It was finally time to leave and we had fun at the small event Amain Hobbies had set up for everyone, we'll always be back to check them out!

#scalerfabftw #areyouscalerenough

Soldering - A ScalerFab Team Driver Tutorial

Soldering - A ScalerFab Team Driver Tutorial

ScalerFab Tech Tip – June 2017 by 

Oliver Barber


Soldering Basics

Soldering is a pretty simple and extremely useful skill within the RC hobby, however, over time, I've come across a fair number of people who don’t believe they can do it. Instead opt to pay a hobby shop or fellow hobbyist to solder for them.

This guide aims to show that soldering things yourself is an extremely simple, more convenient, and much cheaper way, than paying someone else, to do it. I’ll be making a ESC-battery extension lead as an example.


Stuff you will need

- Decent soldering iron (I have a Weller SPG 40, and like it a lot) – an underpowered iron won’t fully heat up the solder; ideally you want to touch the solder and have it instantly melt.

- Side cutters – useful for cutting wires to length

- Hobby knife – for stripping rubber sheathing from the wires.

- Flux – Makes the solder bond much more easily to wires. Most brands designed for electronic soldering are pretty good.

- Solder - aim for a mix that’s close to a 60/40 mix of tin and lead.

- Electrical tape – for covering wires when done, pretty self-explanatory.

- What you want to solder - esc needing connectors, LEDs, etc.

 Step 1

Strip the wire(s) you’ll be soldering with the hobby knife. You want to aim to just remove the rubber coating without cutting into the wire strands inside too much. In most cases, you’ll want to remove at most 6mm (1/4in) of coating from the end.


Step 2

Coat everything that is going to be soldered with flux. I typically use an old paintbrush that I have lying around for this; you just want to aim to have a light coating. Any more will just result it running all over the place when it melts and becomes a liquid later.


Step 3

Turn your soldering iron on, wait for it to heat up, then melt some solder onto the tip. Touch the iron to one of the wires you’re working with, until you see that it has wicked the solder on and into the wire. You may need to rotate the wire a little to ensure full coverage, but the solder will flow of its own accord – if you have to force it, your iron’s temperature is too low. Repeat this for every piece you’re soldering, including connectors. The end result should look similar to the picture.


Step 4

Now, it’s time to actually solder things together! In this case, I held things together by hand, as I was using very stiff wires, but in many cases it may be easier to gently clamp the connector/esc/whatever in a vice, so you have one less thing to worry about.

Hold the wire so it’s touching the connector (with XT60 connectors, the end actually goes into the connector a little), and hold the soldering iron to the joint until you see the solder melt. Remove the iron, and carefully hold everything in place for a few seconds until it hardens fully.


Step 6

All that’s left now is to cover up the bare joint to prevent something causing a short. Both electrical tape and heat-shrink tubing are great for this; I prefer heat-shrink when possible, but had run out before making this guide. If you’re using electrical tape, you’ll only need a piece that’s about an inch long for each wire; anymore and you’ll just be wrapping it around itself multiple times and making everything bulkier for no reason.


That’s it! So long as you do the prep work in the first few steps (flux and tinning), you’re basically guaranteed to get a good solder joint every time. If you’re not sure that a joint is solid, just try to pull on it; if you can’t get it apart by hand, it’ll be fine (obviously be careful if doing this with soldered LEDs).

Quick note: Soldering also works great for creating brass flatbeds, accessories, etc.; just be sure to use a lot of flux and solder, and keep in mind that it’ll take longer for the solder to heat up, as the brass acts like a heatsink.



Fun times and good runs at the Monster Truck Showdown in Rhode Island

Sometimes you do better without your truck...

Last month I was fortunate enough to be able to attend the Monster Showdown in Rhode Island.  Only downfall to going is I was unable to bring any scale trucks which, ended up not being so bad, as all they did was a u4 event which my trucks are not set up for.  I ran 2.2 mod, 2.2 sporty and borrowed a buddy's mini to be able to run. In 2.2 mod class, truck and driver were working well but I did have 1 minor break on course which cost me a few places. All in all I was able to come home with a 5th place, even with some of the best driver's around. Sporty class wasn't as well as my truck didn't like the terrain out there.  In the mini class I was able to take 1st with a borrowed truck. Lol.  The scenery out there is absolutely amazing right on the ocean. Later, Adam

Cristian Fischer treks up North to hang out with his Northern Teammates.

Cristian Fischer treks up North to hang out with his Northern Teammates.

My tiny truck adventure with some great ScalerFab Teammates!             

I took my 1.9 scale and my 2.2 S /2.2 pro rigs on a multi-state adventure with 2 other ScalerFab guys. My 6 am flight out of Love Field in Dallas made for a very early start to the extended weekend. I was picked up at the airport in Minneapolis by Nick Ahrens, a fellow 149 R/C Worx driver. We then made the hour journey across the border to Wisconsin and the home of Adam Nerby (149 R/C Worx owner and fellow ScalerFab team mate).  After dropping off my bag, we drove up to Lake Superior for the first of three tiny truck adventures of the weekend. The rocks and the scenery were amazing and we even got to see the “ship house” from one of the HGTV shows. Our adventure was cut short by an unexpected downpour. So we decided to call it a day and head home.  Our second adventure began early Saturday morning with testing and tuning of the rigs. We were joined Josh Krupenny (149 R/C Worx and ScalerFab team driver). After the tuning session was over, seven of us drove out to Taylor Falls on the Wisconsin/Minnesota border to set up several course for three classes. We then spent the rest of the day running whatever rigs we brought out. Our Sunday included a comp with the Minnesota Radio Control Rock Crawling group (MNRCRC) at Interstate State Park back up in Taylor Falls. We drove over some pretty awesome rock formations and down in some glacial potholes. I had a great time representing Texas, 149 R/C Worx, and ScalerFab and I’m looking forward to doing it again next year.

Steve McColly tells us what the Pacific Northwest has to offer.

Steve McColly tells us what the Pacific Northwest has to offer.

Fun timed crawling in the Pacific Northwest

There hasn't been a lot going on here in the Pacific Northwest lately besides either rain or extreme heat LOL. But that still doesn't stop us from getting out and doing some teeny trucking. As often as we can we get out and hit the trail to get some quality Trail time in, and then just enjoy the Pacific Northwest scenery. With all the different terrain that we have around heren, it also gives me an opportunity to get testing and tuning in to improve my trucks out on the trail. We have a little bit of everything here from dirt, rocks, mud, sand, trees, you name it we probably have it. Even water, or clear dirt, whatever you like to call it.

I hope everybody is already enjoying their summer and getting some teeny trucking in and stay safe out on the trails....

Steve Crotts shows again the protection that ScalerFab Trail Armor offers

Steve Crotts shows again the protection that ScalerFab Trail Armor offers

Durability and sad realization at this - 2017 SUMMER SHOOTOUT SERIES – ROUND #5 event.


The 5th event of my local club's comp series was held this past weekend and it was a competitive event. The weather was perfect with mild temps in the 80’s and sunny. The location for this event is held on private property in a creek bed. The creek is active so it has pockets of deep water but offers awesome terrain.


Class 2 was up first and consisted of three 10 gate courses, the first course being the most challenging due to the ledges in the creek bed.  Course 1 would bite me right out of the gate, I took a tumble off the ledge and ended up with a re-position plus a couple gates, so my score on this course was not close to the top. Luckily my ScalerFab armor did its job and the rig didn’t suffer any damage.  I was able to rebound on the next two courses and have competitive scores but with the caliber of drivers we had at this event, it wasn’t enough. I ended up finishing 6th and of 8 drivers.  Something I have come to realize during the course of the season is that my Class 2 rig has become outdated. I built it two years ago and primarily for G6 or Endurance type events and have not done much updating. The new generation of comp chassis such as Toyzuki appears to be the winning combination currently.


Class 1 which has become my favorite class was up next. We ended up utilizing the Class 2 courses with some mild tweaks for Class 1 and it made for a very competitive class among the 8 drivers.  Once again Course 1 would get me with a tumble of the ledge. I drove the course clean with no gates but incurred a couple reposition penalties due to rolls off the ledge.  There was a crevice on Course 2 that sucked me in but I was able to winch out and finish the course without hitting any gates. Other than some reverses on Course 3, I had a clean run. When the scores were completed I was able to rebound for a 3rd place finish and with that kept me in a tie for 1st place in the championship.

Basics of a flaming hot paint job!

Basics of a flaming hot paint job!

Ever wonder how to paint flame paint jobs? Today, we’re going to go over a few basics to help you out.

Tools Needed:

- Your chosen body

-Your choice of paint colors (I recommend Tamiya Lexan paint)

-Spaz Stix Ultimate Plastic Surface Pre-prep spray

-Latex or nitrile gloves (to keep oils off of the body)

-Flame masks (from your local hobby shop)

-A red scotch brite pad

-Some paper towels, lexan scissors, and a body reamer.

Step 1: The first thing to do is to locate where your body posts are. The easiest way to do this is to mark them with a sharpie on the clear removable film.

Step 2: Then use the pre-prep spray to clean and degrease the inside of your body. Apply gloves before touching the cleaned body.  Apply the window masks to the inside of the body using firm pressure. The window masks are included with your body.  Make sure all edges of masks are completely adhered to the body to prevent the paint from bleeding.

Step 3: Use a dry red scotch brite pad to scuff the inside of the body where paint will be applied.  Wipe out any leftover dust or debris with a dry paper towel.

Step 4: Next, apply the flame masks where you want them using firm pressure to make sure they are fully adhered to the lexan body.

Step 5: Next, spray a few light coats of the main body color, making sure to wait 15 to 20 minutes between coats.

Step 6: Remove the flame masks and spray your choice of flame color. I like to put a coat of white, black or silver paint to seal and protect the paint. Some companies make a special undercoat paint for this purpose, but it isn’t required.

Final Step: Lastly, remove the window masks and cut out your body with scissors and make your body post holes with the body reamer.

Enjoy your new custom flame job.

Thank you for checking out



Team Driver Chris Leal went crawling with his local friends and tells us about the fun.

Team Driver Chris Leal went crawling with his local friends and tells us about the fun.

 Durability, team work, and careful planning made this adventure even more fun.


This month we stuck close to home and had some fun on our local trails with Plumas County Scalers. We drove our normal Stover Mountain Trail and had some fun finding a few new lines. My ScalerFab Wraith Armor Skid Plates definitely shined in a few spots, taking a hard drop and doing what they do, "skidding" over some other terrain. On our way up, a driver up front tipped over trying to climb a rock that was to steep with out help, so of course I used my winch and had him back on his wheels in no time. We made it up the hill with no more issues and stopped for lunch before we headed towards the river to wash the trucks. It was a great day for our RC adventure with our local Plumas County Scalers. #areyouscalerenough #scalerfab


Steve Studstill make it into the running for the 2017 SE Shootout Championship thanks to his run here.

Steve Studstill make it into the running for the 2017 SE Shootout Championship thanks to his run here.
Written by Team ScalerFab Driver, Steve Studstill
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